Hama-dori Fukushima

Now for people who like swimming, great ocean veiws or just to lay on the beach in the sun, can`t miss out on the Hama-dori area in Fukushima.

Hama-dori, situated in eastern Fukushima Prefecture facing the Pacific Ocean, consists of three cities the main city being Iwaki, nine townships and three villages. Covering 2,971 square kilometers, the region accounts for about 22% of the prefecture's total land area. The southern half of Hama-dori, with Iwaki City as its center, was once Honshu's largest coal mining base. Nowadays, the district is a key trading and energy-supply center as well as a base for marine industries and recreational activities. Construction projects either completed or currently under way include seaports, industrial parks and large-scale power generation plants, including nuclear power plants.

Geographically, the Hama-dori region is a lowland with a rather straight coast-line about 159 kilometers in length. It borders the Naka-dori region in the Abukuma mountains to the west. Visitors to the coast can enjoy magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean, fishing, and a delicious variety of seafood. Scenic beaches abound, and in the summer many people visit the region's coast to engage in marine activities. Another attraction in Hama-dori is the many beautiful ravines, formed by rivers, large and small, which originate in the Abukuma mountains and flow into the Pacific.

Because of its coastal climate, the region is the warmest in the prefecture, and the first to enjoy the flowering of the cherry blossoms that herald the beginning of spring. In summer, the ocean breeze is particularly pleasant, and in winter snow-fall is light, in contrast to the prefecture's Aizu region, which often receives heavy snow.
 
Iwaki City
Iwaki city is the largest city (its area is a twice bigger than Singapore) in Japan, and is located in the southern part of Fukushima Prefecture. Many exciting spots such as an old castle town, fishing ports, industrial areas, spas and beaches can be found within the city limits. Since Iwaki is located on the Pacific Ocean side, its climate is relatively mild when compared with the rest of the northeastern part of Japan. Because winter in Iwaki is mild, there are rich sea and mountain products which are caught and sold by generous peddlers. Thus the mild climate has been giving wonderful living conditions to the people who living here. Iwaki also has a long history of accepting foreigners to work its coal mines. Since Joban-jidosha-do (an express way) was opened in 1988, the city has become more convenient for people to travel between Iwaki and Tokyo which may explain the rapid growth of Iwaki city. (the picture shown is Marine Tower).

Iwaki city in Hamam-dori Fukushima just may be what your looking for while traveling in the Tohoku region of Japan. From Great beaches and seafood to old castles I hope everyone enjoys thier stay in Hama-dori.



 
 

Mount Zao and the Zao hot springs ski resort

When traveling in the Yamagata prefecture make sure you don`t miss mount Zao and it`s famous hot spring and ski resort. Located at the foot of Yamagata's Mt. Zao, the Zao Hot Spring was found 1900 years ago and is considered as one of Japan's oldest hot spring resorts.

Said to have been discovered in 110 AD, the Zao Hot Springs are famous as the oldest of the three great hot springs of Japan’s Northeastern Tohoku region. This hot spring is known for its high acidity, and it is called both “The Princess Hot Spring” and “The Fountain of Beauty” due to its reputation for healing both skin conditions and gastrointestinal disorders. The Zao Hot Springs Resort area is lined with hot spring bathhouses that have been bustling for centuries and rustic traditional Japanese inns (ryokan) filled with fellow travelers. This atmospheric locale is the perfect place to take a stroll while shopping for souvenirs and gifts for your friends.

The famous Zao Open Air Hot Spring (rottenburo) is just a short distance away from the Hot Springs Resort area. There, you can enjoy the liberating sensation of open air bathing surrounded by the beauty of nature. This Open Air Hot Spring is popular with tourists and locals alike!

Of course this is the ideal place to come to during the winter season. Imagine hopping into one of these amazing hotsprings after bombing down the ski hill.


Zao Hot Springs Ski Resort


The diverse array of courses at the Zao Hot Springs Ski Resort can be enjoyed by anyone, from beginners to experts, making it a great vacation spot for the whole family. Mt. Zao is well known for its high quality snow, which draws droves of excited skiers year after year.
The breathtaking natural wonder of ice monsters standing against a backdrop of pale white snow is a symbol of Mt. Zao. This phenomenon, seen in the photo below, is the result of Maries’ Fir trees that become covered in fine snow and ice until they appear to become ice monsters. It is a natural work of art that is made possible by Yamagata’s unique winter climate. Skiing between these ice monsters in the afternoon followed by an evening viewing a dreamlike landscape of beautifully lit ice monsters is a sublime experience exclusive to Mt. Zao.

The skiing and hot springs areas are located in such close proximity to each other that you can ski or snow board down the slopes and end up right in the middle of the Zao Hot Springs Resort. When you’re worn out after a day of fun in the snow, take a relaxing soak in a hot spring followed by a delicious meal, and let all your worries fade away. In recent years, the number of skiers and snow boarders from outside Japan has been increasing, and there are multilingual signs and maps throughout this ski resort.

This is definitely a great place for any snow boarders or skiers but for those who can`t can enjoy the amazing scenery and breath taking hot springs. Also make sure to see the Zao Okama Crater Lake.

This natural lake formed in the crater of a volcano is the symbol of Mt. Zao. It is 27 meters deep and 1,000 meters in perimeter, and it is sometimes called the Five Color Lake due to the way its water changes colors from day to day. There are a number of mountaineering routes from the foot of the mountain to the crater, which are active with excited trekkers enjoying the journey up Mt. Zao in the spring and summer. This area is also known for the growth of the incredibly rare Japanese Bleeding Heart, a flower that only grows in extremely high altitudes.

I truly hope you all get the chance to visit Zao mountain in Yamagata, while traveling through the Tohoku region of Japan. From skiing or boarding to some of the best hot springs Japan has to offer, make sure to make this part of your Tohoku trip.













 

Hiraizumi Iwate

Hiraizumi (平泉町, Hiraizumi-chō?) is a town located in Nishiiwai District, Iwate, Japan. It was the home of the Hiraizumi Fujiwaras for about 100 years in the late Heian era and most of the following Kamakura period. At the same time it served as the de facto capital of Oshu, an area containing nearly a third of the Japanese land area. At its height the population of Hiraizumi reached nearly a million people, rivaling Kyoto in size and splendor.[citation needed] A million people in those days would put it among the largest cities on earth.

The first structure built in Hiraizumi may have been Hakusan Shrine on top of Mount Kanzan (Barrier Mountain). A writer in 1334 recorded that the shrine was already 700 years old. Although rebuilt many times, the same shrine is still standing in the same location. In about 1100 Fujiwara no Kiyohira (藤原清衡) moved his home from Fort Toyoda in present day Esashi Ward, Oshu City to Mount Kanzan in Hiraizumi. This location was significant for several reasons. Kanzan is situated at the junction of two rivers, the Kitakami and the Koromo. Traditionally the Koromo River served as the boundary between Japan to the south and the Emishi peoples to the north. By building his home south of the Koromo Kiyohira (half Emishi himself) demonstrated his intention to rule Oshu without official sanction from the court in Kyoto. Kanzan was also directly on the Frontier Way, the main road leading from Kyoto to the northern lands as they opened up. Kanzan was also seen as the exact center of Oshu which stretched from the Shirakawa Barrier in the south to Sotogahama in present day Aomori Prefecture. Kiyohira built the large temple complex on Kanzan known as Chūson-ji. The first structure was a large pagoda at the very top of the mountain. In conjunction with this he placed small umbrella reliquaries (kasa sotoba) every hundred meters along the Frontier Way decorated with placards depicting Amida Buddha painted in gold. Other pagodas, temples and gardens followed including the Konjikido, a jewel box of a building intended to represent the Buddhist Pure Land and the final resting place of the Fujiwara lords.

Hiraizumi's golden age lasted for nearly 100 years, but after the fall of the Fujiwaras the town sank back into relative obscurity, and most of the buildings that gave the town its cultural prominence were destroyed. When the poet Matsuo Bashō saw the state of the town in 1689 he penned a famous haiku about the impermanence of human glory:

In current times Hiraizumi in one of the places that everyone visiting the Tohoku area should see. Some of the main attractions and plaves you should check out are Motsuji Temple,  Chusonji Temple,  Takadachi Gikeido and the Takkoku no Iwaya.

The Motsuji Temple

For its outstanding cultural and historic value, Motsuji Temple is dually designated a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty. To the north is a hill called Mt. Doyama, before which spread out the wide open temple and garden complex. The elegance of the twelfth century garden is preserved in the mountainous formations and peninsular sea cliffs of Oizumi ga Ike Pond's rocks and the reflection of cedar and pine trees on its waters. As one of the most important sites in Japan's garden history, Motsuji's temple garden has been fully restored to its original state.

When walking around Motsuji, visitors will encounter many sign posts indicating the sites of former buildings. The foundations of these buildings have been left intact, allowing one to imagine the grandeur of Motsuji as it stood before. These same foundations inspired the celebrated haiku poet Basho to compose one of his most famous poems, in which he reflects on the impermanence of glory.

Motsuji still has a number of standing buildings that will interest visitors. Among these are the Hondo, the temple's principal hall; the Cultural Assets Repository, a treasure house displaying Motsuji's historical and cultural artifacts; and the Kaizando, a building commemorating the third head of the Tendai sect and the three Fujiwara lords who ruled over Hiraizumi.

Chusonji Temple

The Golden Hall (Kondo) of Chusonji Temple, a National Treasure, was built in 1124. The building is now sheltered by a protective concrete building, which was built in the 20th century, because the interior and exterior of the Hall is plated with glittering gold. The Hall is a reminiscence of the prosperity and culture of the region. Chusonji Temple stands in the town of Hiraizumi, Iwate Prefecture, in north-eastern Japan, now a small agricultural town with a population of less than ten thousand. However, in the 12th century, the region was a leading producer of gold and there flourished a magnificent aristocratic culture. In the late 11th century, the Fujiwara family, descendants of an offshoot of the distinguished family in Kyoto, settled in Hiraizumi and became powerful rulers of northern Japan. Since then, three generations of the family prospered here until they were overthrown in 1189. Chusonji Temple was originally founded in 850 and rebuilt by the Fujiwara family. Rebuilding started in 1105 and lasted for 21 years during which pagodas, halls, gate, bell tower, repository, and many other buildings were built in succession. In the finished complex there were over 40 temples and shrines, as well as 300 cells for priests. However, after the collapse of the Fujiwara family the prestige of the temple declined, and a fire in 1337 destroyed all the buildings except for the Golden Hall; it survived thanks to the first protective building built in 1288, and part of the sutra repository.

All other buildings remaining today except for the Golden Hall were those rebuilt in the 17th century. The Golden Hall is also a grave of the three successive heads of the Fujiwara family. On the altars under which three coffins are stored stand rows of golden Buddhist statues and accouterments, and those altars, the ceilings, and pillars are gorgeously decorated with gold, silver and jewels.

Chusonji has a number of interesting buildings apart from those dating back to the Fujiwara period. The main rituals and rites of the temple are performed at the Hondo (main hall), and there is a Treasure Hall that houses some impressive artifacts. There is also a beautiful noh theater stage. Chusonji's attractions are located along a network of paths that extend about one kilometer into the forest.

The Takadachi Gikeido

The Takadachi Gikeido is a memorial dedicated to Minamoto Yoshitsune, the younger brother of Minamoto Yoritomo. In one of Japan's most famous and tragic events, Yoshitsune was killed by the order of Yoritomo who considered his younger brother a potential rival on his way to become the absolute ruler of Japan.

Hunted by Yoritomo, Yoshitsune first found refuge in Hiraizumi, where he was finally hunted down and killed, and the city was destroyed.

Minamoto no Yoshitsune (源 義経, 1159 – June 15, 1189?) was a general of the Minamoto clan of Japan in the late Heian and early Kamakura period. Yoshitsune was the ninth son of Minamoto no Yoshitomo. Yoshitsune's older brother Minamoto no Yoritomo (the third son of Yoshitomo) founded the Kamakura shogunate. Yoshitsune's name in childhood was Ushiwakamaru (牛若丸).

Yoshitsune was born during the heiji Rebellion of 1159 in which his father and oldest two brothers were killed. His life was spared and he was put under the care of Kurama Temple 鞍馬寺, nestled in the Hiei Mountains near the capital of Kyoto, while Yoritomo was banished to Izu Province. Eventually, Yoshitsune was put under the protection of Fujiwara no Hidehira, head of the powerful regional Northern Fujiwara clan in Hiraizumi, Mutsu Province. A skillful swordsman, he defeated the legendary warrior monk Benkei in a duel. From then on, Benkei became Yoshitsune's right-hand man, eventually dying with him at the Siege of Koromogawa. In 1180, Yoshitsune heard that Yoritomo, now head of the Minamoto clan, had raised an army at the request of Prince Mochihito to fight against the Taira clan (also known as the Heike) which had usurped the power of the emperor. Yoshitsune shortly thereafter joined Yoritomo, along with Minamoto no Noriyori, all brothers who had never before met, in the last of three conflicts between the rival Minamoto and Taira samurai clans, known as the Genpei War. Yoshitsune defeated and killed his rival cousin Minamoto no Yoshinaka at the Battle of Awazu in Ōmi Province in the first month of 1184 and in the next month defeated the Taira at the Battle of Ichi-no-Tani in present day Kobe. In 1185, Yoshitsune defeated the Taira again at the Battle of Yashima in Shikoku and destroyed them at the Battle of Dan-no-ura in present day Yamaguchi Prefecture.

After the Gempei War, Yoshitsune joined the cloistered Emperor Go-Shirakawa against his brother Yoritomo. Fleeing to the temporary protection of Fujiwara no Hidehira in Mutsu again, Yoshitsune was betrayed, defeated at the Battle of Koromo River, and forced to commit seppuku along with his wife and daughter, by Hidehira's son Fujiwara no Yasuhira. Yoshitsune is enshrined in the Shinto shrine Shirahata Jinja in Fujisawa. Yoshitsune has long been a popular figure in Japanese literature and culture due to his appearance as the main character in the third section of the Japanese literary classic Heike Monogatari (Tale of the Heike). The Japanese term for "sympathy for a tragic hero", Hougan-biiki, comes from Yoshitsune's title Hougan, which he received from the Imperial Court.
The Takadachi Gikeido is one of the greatest historical locations in the Tohoku region of Japan and simply a must see.

Takkoku no Iwaya

Takkoku no Iwaya Bishamon Hall was constructed in the beginning of the Heian era. As a temple built in a rocky cavern, it is considered as the largest one in the country. Its beginning dates back to 801 when Lord General Sakanoue no Tamuramaro built a temple with 108 Bishamonten (Buddhist deity) modeled after Kyoto's Kiyomizu Temple. He did so to show his appreciation for the protection he received when he conquered the Emishi.

The following year in 802, the Takkoku-Seiko Temple was opened as a Bettoji (attached temple).

Since then, the Takkoku no Iwaya Bishamon Hall went up in flames a number of times and its many halls and Bishamonten were completely destroyed by fire in 1946.

The current Bishamon Hall was rebuilt in 1961and 27 Bishamonten statues still remain. An image of the Amida Nyorai 16.5 meters tall is engraved on the left-hand side of the big rocky cavern's outer wall. Although only its head and shoulders are currently visible, it is still considered as a valuable Buddhist image engraved on a rocky surface.

Takkoku no Iwaya stands about six kilometers outside of central Hiraizumi. There are 4-6 buses per day from Hiraizumi Station in direction of the Genbikei Gorge, which make a 15 minute stop at Takkoku no Iwaya along the way. The one way trip from Hiraizumi Station to Takkoku no Iwaya takes about 10 minutes and costs 380 yen. There are no buses during winter (December to mid April).

Alternatively, the temple can be accessed by bicycle in about 20-40 minutes.

For anyone traveling in Iwate of the Tohoku region make sure to put Hiraizumi on your list.

Kakunodate of Akita

Kakunodate is a former castle town and samurai stronghold in today's Akita Prefecture. While Kakunodate Castle no longer remains, the town is famous for its samurai tradition and its hundreds of weeping cherry trees (shidarezakura).

Apart from the loss of its castle, Kakunodate remains remarkably unchanged since its founding in 1620. The town was built with two distinct areas, the samurai district and the merchant district. Once home to 80 families, the samurai district still has some of the best examples of samurai architecture in all of Japan.

Kakunodate is also well known as the location of one of the Tohoku Region's most popular cherry blossom spots. Around late April and early May, large crowds of people come to see Kakunodate's special combination of pink blossoms and historic homes.

Kakunodate Castle was an important regional fortification, and in the late 1500s a small castle town was built around it. The town was moved to Kakunodate's current location in 1620, marking the founding date of Kakunodate town, as well as the demolition of its castle due to a change in legislation by the shogunate.


Today, nothing on the hilltop site of Kakunodate's former castle indicates that it was once a center of regional power. Instead, an overgrown path leads up the steep hillside to a flattened plain with a bench. A panoramic view of Kakunodate town and the Hinokinaigawa River rewards those who make the short climb.

The Kakunodate samurai district, which once housed about 80 families, is one of the best examples of samurai architecture and housing in the country. Its wide streets and large courtyards are shaded by dozens of weeping cherry trees which bloom in early May. During this time, the wide streets are busy with hanami tourists.


Of the samurai houses that remain intact, six are open to the public and offer visitors the chance to see how middle class and wealthy samurai families might have lived. Of the six open houses, two are particularly noteworthy for their size and quality: the Aoyagi House and the Ishiguro House.

The Aoyagi House (Aoyagi-ke) is an impressive complex with multiple buildings containing museum collections, restaurants and gift shops. The displays provide interesting information in both English and Japanese on samurai traditions, lifestyle and Japan's historical context in relation to Kakunodate. It is a useful place to visit for those interested in Kakunodate's samurai history.


The second samurai home of special note is the Ishiguro House (Ishiguro-ke). The area open to visitors is much smaller than that of the Aoyagi House, largely because the family still resides in the rest of the house. On display is a small collection of samurai armor and clothing, as well as anatomical drawings and studies. The Ishiguro House also has a well preserved storeroom.

The other four open houses are free to enter and offer varying levels of accessibility. They are mostly examples of middle class samurai residences and thus, are smaller than the Aoyagi-ke and Ishiguro-ke. There are also two museums that may be of interest to visitors: Denshokan Museum displays Kakunodate's traditional products and craftwork, while Omura Art Museum houses a private glasswork collection.

Kakunodate was established as a castle town in 1620 under the authority of Ashina Yoshikatsu, a local lord. At that time, the town was built to reflect a division between the samurai district and the merchant district. Although the samurai district is better known to tourists, the merchant district also claims some interesting buildings and history.


The most impressive building in the district is Ando Jozo Miso storehouse and shop. The Meiji Period brick storehouse is a beautifully preserved structure, while the shop sells miso and soya sauce, which have been produced by the same method for over 150 years, drawing Japanese cuisine aficionados from across the country.

A few other historic buildings can be found dispersed among the more modern construction prevalent in this part of town. Many buildings, both historic and modern, are stores selling cherry tree bark products. Local woodworkers craft the cherry bark into small mirrors, jewelry boxes, and pieces of furniture. Known as "kabazaiku", cherry bark woodwork dates back to a Kakunodate samurai named Fujimura Hikoroku who popularized the craft among his neighbours.

Nishinomiya House is another important compound located adjacent to the merchant district in a second, smaller samurai zone. Once the home of the wealthy Nishinomiya family, the different buildings have since been converted into a restaurant, shop and museum. The Nishinomiya complex is representative of a prosperous, multi generational home.

When traveling to the Akita preficture of the Tohoku region in Japan be sure not to miss Kakunodate.

Aizu in the Fukushima Prefecture

Aizu (会津, Aizu?) is an area comprising the westernmost third of Fukushima Prefecture in Japan. The principal city of the area is Aizuwakamatsu.During the Edo period, Aizu was a feudal domain known as Aizu Domain (会津藩, Aizu-han?) and part of Mutsu Province.

The daimyo over much of the Edo period was from the Hoshina family. They had been senior retainers of the Takeda family, and in the early 17th century the head of the family, Hoshina Masamitsu, adopted the illegitimate son of the second Tokugawa shogun Hidetada. As a result, the Hoshina family's fortunes rose, with larger and larger fiefs being given to them, until finally they were moved to Aizu, then rated at 240,000 koku, in the mid-17th century. Hoshina Masayuki, the adopted head of the family, rose in prominence while his half-brother Tokugawa Iemitsu was shogun, and later acted as a regent for his successor, the underage fourth shogun Tokugawa Ietsuna. By the end of the 17th century, the Hoshina family was allowed the use of the Tokugawa hollyhock crest and the Matsudaira surname, and from then on was known as the Aizu-Matsudaira clan, with the name Hoshina being used mainly for internal documents.

In the house code set down by Masayuki, there was a specific injunction to serve the shogun with single-minded devotion, and it was this injunction which the family took great pains to show its adherence to, even if its true objectives were those of improving status and prestige.

Aizu was known for its martial skill, and maintained a standing army of over 5000. It was often deployed to security operations on the northern fringes of the country, as far north as southern Sakhalin. Also, around the time of Commodore Perry's arrival, Aizu had a presence in security operations around Edo Bay.

The domain's two sets of formal rules for its army, the Rules for Commanders (将長禁令 shōchō kinrei) and Rules for Soldiers (士卒禁令 shisotsu kinrei), written in the 1790s, laid down a professional, modern standard for military conduct and operations, including the following two items in the Rules for Soldiers which codified the human rights and protection of enemy noncombatants, over 70 years before the first Geneva Convention of 1864.

Aizu, located in western Fukushima Prefecture, is a region with a long samurai tradition that is proudly put on display for visitors. A story well known throughout Japan, a group of young soldiers from Aizu committed ritual suicide upon thinking that their castle, Tsuruga Castle, had been taken by the enemy in a battle accompanying the end of Japan's feudal age in 1868.

Though the soldiers had been mistaken and their castle was still standing, the Aizu forces did indeed eventually lose the battle. The imperial forces, who they had been fighting, abolished the Aizu domain and tore down Tsuruga Castle. The castle has since been restored and is now open to the public.

References to Noguchi Hideo, perhaps the area's most famous citizen, can be seen around town. Born and raised in Aizu, Noguchi was a famous Japanese doctor in the early 1900s who made significant advances in the study of syphilis. Tourists may find his face familiar, as Noguchi's portrait adorns the 1000 yen bill.

If your interested in the histroy of the Japanese samurai this is a place that can`t be missed.
The castle of Aizu
The 5-story castle serves as a local history museum. The first floor contains materials pertaining to the Buddhist culture in the Aizu area and Aizu rulers'. The second floor holds famous antique lacquer ware and pottery. The third floor holds items connected with the Boshin War are located on the next two floors. The forth floor focuses on the famous Byakkotai pictures, the White Tiger Band, a group of loyal youths who met a tragic end during the war. The fifth floor functions as an observation platform. There is an interesting display of antiques in the long one-story wing Hashiri Nagaya, which extends from the southern end of the castle. In the back of the castle tawor ,visitors are welcome to use the rest area and information center. Although each season has its own special charm, the castle grounds are particularly lovely in the end of April, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, and autumn, when the leaves are turning color. History comes to life in multi-colored splendor during the Aizu Autumn Festival. The highlight of the Aizu Autumn Festival is the samurai parade on September 23rd. The procession, which begins at the castle and a passes through the main streets of the city, suggests a large-scale filming location for an old Japanese movie. Every former owner of the castle (from the Ashina to the Matsudaira lords) is represented in the procession, dressed in their armor and helmets, accompanied by their retainers (more than 500 people), a prince and princess, and members of the Byakkotai. It is like a colorful historical picture scroll unfolding before the viewers' eyes.
I am sure everyone will love this site and feel alive standing on this ancient battle feild.

Dewa Sanzan of Yamagata

Dewa Sanzan ("three mountains of Dewa") are three sacred mountains in Yamagata Prefecture, each with a shrine on or near its peak. The mountains are named Haguro-san, Gas-san and Yudono-san and remain centers of mountain worship. Representing birth (Haguro-san), death (Gas-san) and rebirth (Yudono-san), the mountains are usually visited in that order.

Dewa Sanzan is a center of Shugendo, a folk religion based on mountain worship, blending Buddhist and Shinto traditions. Shugendo practitioners, called yamabushi, perform feats of endurance as a means of transcending the physical world. Training includes such tasks as long pilgrimages and endurance of the elements.

Evidence of Shugendo's most extreme test of physical endurance and religious devotion lies in the nearby Churenji and Dainichibo Temples. Here, two monks succeeded in preserving their own bodies as mummies through extreme diet modification and meditation. Although the practice is now banned, these self-mummified monks are considered living Buddhas for their achievement.

Part of Dewa Sanzan's appeal is its remoteness. Yamagata's heavy snowfall makes travel in the mountains difficult during the winter months when only Haguro-san remains open. The best time to visit is between July and mid September when all three shrines are open to pilgrims and tourists.

Past the Suishinmon Gate are the precincts of the Dewa Sanzan Shrine. The precincts of the shrine extend over Gassan Mountain and continue all the way to far-off Yudonosan Mountain. The gate was originally dedicated as a Buddhist "Niomon" gate but during the Meiji separation of Shinto and Buddhist belief systems it was rededicated as a Shinto gate.


Leading down the Mamako Hill from the Suishinmon Gate is a holy bridge crossing the Haraigawa River. In the past, pilgrims to the three mountains would submerge themselves and perform ablutions in the Haraigawa River before climbing the mountain to complete their pilgrimage. The red lacquered bridge is provided a beautiful backdrop by the Suga Waterfall and rugged cliffs, making for a stunning scene.

Both sides of the two kilometer pilgrimage road to the summit are thick with ancient and seemingly melancholy cedar trees, ranging from three to six hundred years old. These trees have a dark and mysterious appearance even in full sunlight. The long stone staircase has in total 2,446 steps, and along the way are the "ichi-no-zaka", "ni-no-zaka" and "san-no-zaka" areas of steep climbing.

The left hand side of the entrance of the ichi-no-zaka area is surrounded by cedars, in which stands the five-story pagoda. Made entirely of wood, with a thin wooden-shingled roof and three space, five story construction, it is a graceful structure, as well as being the oldest of these magnificent pagodas in the Tohoku region (1966 National Treasure Designation). It is said that the construction was at the direction of Masakado Taira, and the rebuilding was directed by Emperor Chokei's footman Masauji Futo, the lord of Shonai and governor of Haguro.

Just beyond the "ni-no-zaka" area is a flat stone paved road that continues for some ways. Turning left at the entrance to the "san-no-zaka" area and continuing down the path leads to the Southern Valley. This road is notable for its old pines and cedars clinging to the cliff sides. The remains of the detached temple that haiku poet Basho Matsuo and his apprentice Sora Kawai stopped at during their pilgrimage to the north can be seen here. All that is left now is a portion of the stone foundation, but one can feel the shadow of the calm and peaceful garden that was once fed by the nearby pond.

Just past the three steep areas is the "Saikan" structure. It is the only pilgrim's lodging still extant on the mountain, and still operates as such for pilgrims to the three mountains. Lodgers can experience the monks' unique cuisine and get a feeling for what it was like to make a pilgrimage to the mountains in days past.

Past the red gate at the summit towards the left is the worship hall to the three gods. The shrine is the largest thatched-roof construction shrine in Japan, and is a splendid red-lacquered structure. The altar area is separated by a "mitomae" gateway and enshrines the deities of Gassan, Hagurosan and Yudonosan. There have been many fires at this temple, and the current shrine building is a reconstruction dating to 1818.

The pond in front of the shrine building is for washing one's hands, and has been revered as a holy pond since ancient times for not changing character in any season. It is called the "Mirror Pond" for the many copper mirrors that people have given it as offerings.

On the east side of the pond there is a gabled thatched-roof structure, the "kanezakura", or cherry blossom bell. This is the second oldest structure on the three mountains after the five-story pagoda. The inscription on the bell dates it to 1275, and following those at the Todaiji and Kongobuji temples it is the oldest and largest, and is registered as a National Important Cultural Asset.

The three mountains of Dewa have for many centuries been revered as places where the spirits of the ancestors find respite, and to this day memorial services to the dead are held. These ceremonies are held at the Raisenden, a five-room, laminate construction shrine building with eaves beneath the zigzag stitched gables. The Raisenden was rebuilt in 1983.

Within the mountain precincts there are many historical cultural assets which recall the affluence of elder days.

The Shimokita Peninsula of Aomori

The Shimokita Peninsula (下北半島, Shimokita-hantō) is the remote northeastern cape of the Japanese island of Honshū, stretching out towards Hokkaidō. Administratively the area is a part of Aomori Prefecture.

Shaped like an axe pointing west, the peninsula has a thin "axe handle" connecting the mountainous "axe blade" to the mainland. The coasts maintain a thin scattering of population but the interior is practically uninhabited.

Shimokita is best known as the site of Mount Osore, the mythical Japanese location of the entrance to Hell. The lush Yagen Valley, known for its hot springs, is also located in Shimokita, as is Hotokegaura, wind-carved cliffs said to resemble Buddhas, and the village of Rokkasho, home to a range of nuclear facilities.

The Mountain of Osore is one of the biggest attractions of this area.

Osorezan is translated as "Fear Mountain", a name that comes in part from the mountain's exceptional landscape. The area is rich in volcanic activity, and a strong smell of sulfur permeates the air. The ground is gray and barren and marked by openings that steam, bubble and blow hot water. Lake Usori, located next to the temple, is colored various shades of blue due to its high sulfur content.

Statues of Jizo are commonplace around Osorezan, as are piles of stones and pebbles. The pebbles are offerings to Jizo by parents of dead children in the hope that he will use the stones to help their children gain access to paradise. Brightly colored toy windmills are another common offering frequently seen around Osorezan's grounds.

Every year, Bodaiji's festival (July 22 to 24) attracts the bereaved and those hoping to communicate with lost loved ones through mediums, known as Itako. Itako are blind women who have undergone extensive spiritual training. In order to commune with the dead, they perform austere purification rituals for three months prior to the event and enter into a deep, prolonged trance during the festival.


Also in the Shimokaita peninsula is another beautiful location the Yagen Valley.
There are only two tiny settlements in the entire valley: Yagen Onsen (薬研温泉), a tiny hot-spring hamlet, and Oku-Yagen (奥薬研), population zero but featuring some more hot springs.

The last place anyone visiting the Shimokaita peninsula is Cape Oma (Omasaki).
The cape looks across over the Tsugaru Kaikyo Strait to southern Hokkaido, where the city of Hakodate is visible on clear days. Cape Oma's lookout site is lined by restaurants and souvenir shops selling fish and seaweed products. An observatory building at the cape looks out across the strait.

Besides its geographical notoriety, Oma is well known for its tuna fishing industry. Oma Tuna are among the best and most expensive in Japan, and most make their way to Tokyo's Tsukiji Market and into sushi restaurants across Japan.
I hope everyone enjoys there stay in the Shimokita Peninsula of Aomori and will continue to explore the Tohoku region of Japan.